think about picking the new beijing olympic stadium back in 2003, if my design were just with bricks and cements, would i have gotten the project?
let’s say you are driving a bmw. a newer model comes out and it looks great. very modern. but then you find out that the horsepower didn’t change. no new safety features. the fuel efficiency didn’t even improve. basically, all that is change is the new styling of the exterior. would you buy it? what about getting a new designer chair? a new phone? a new computer? i think you got the point – a new styling is not really a new design. so here is my real question: why are you buying yesteryear’s technology when you are buying fashion?
fashion champions vintage like no other design fields. couture values how many thousand of man-hours are needed to make one dress, how the embroidery techniques are unchanged for over a century. how backward is that? if vintage is so great, then why are we buying new stuff? yea, i am talking to you, marc jacobs.
and this bring me to fashion design in china. playing catch up with the west is a losing battle. competing in the quality of traditional tailoring with the italian is a slow and painful process even if you win. and we are at a great disadvantage if we simply subject ourselves to the judges of good taste from france.
we need to look no further than the chinese auto industry for hints. wang chuan-fu, the ceo of ‘byd’, knows styling is only part of the equation. to outrun the gasoline-based car companies and truly compete internationally, he saw lithium ion batteries as the solution – new technology. for examples, how can we utilize the sneakers production technology and create something new and fashionable that we can call our own?
armed with the knowledge and the experience of western designers, we should all be new style trailblazers to push fashion forwards. and let technology be our tools.
(first published in the feb. 2010 issue of his life magazine)
时装界的大腕儿们比起任何其它设计领域都要老式。高级定制时装不在乎花费多少人工来完成一件礼服，还有几百年来始终不变的刺绣技术。这不是在倒退是什么？如果老式这么好我们又为何在买新的东西？没错，我正在说marc jacobs，他向来是时尚界中一位笨拙而孤僻的局外人。同时，他又是最酷、最具影响力的时装设计师。著名时尚评论人suzy menkes曾经 在《国际先驱论坛报》上写道：“lv的08s/s整场表演是对经典时尚的一次拙劣模仿。”
(第一次发表: 2010年2月 他的生活杂志. 翻译: joe wang.)